Not all those who wander are lost. – J. R. R. Tolkien

Capella Sistina (The Sistine Chapel), 4.27.10

Capella Sistina is one of the highlights of any trip, midpoint in the compound known as the Vatican with its strong walls that allow safe movement of the Pope from one structure to another. The chapel was built in 1481 when Michaelangelo was just a baby, as the pontiff's private chapel and for conclave when the Cardinals gather to elect a new pope. Cardinals remain sealed in the Sistine Chapel until a unanimous decision is made, and the 250,000 people in St Peters Square know the result by the smoke from the chimney. Black - no decision; White - they have elected a new Pope.

In addition to its magnificent value as original art, the Sistine Chapel tells a story. With hushed tones we enter the sanctuary which is packed with hundreds of people craning their necks to take it all in. No photos, please, cell phones, backpacks, short shorts, or uncovered shoulders.
The frescoes have recently undergone a delicate restoration after sitting faded under years of soot and grime. The stunning original colors beneath have been revealed, Michaelangelo's original colors that he added himself to wet plaster and created the masterpiece in sections. It is interesting that when the Pope commissioned the young sculptor to paint the ceiling in 1508, Michaelangelo fled to Florence because he believed such an important work should not be done by a novice painter. He was fortunately persuaded to return and he worked mainly unassisted and flat on his back for four years. The story of Creation is here, and that of Noah, surrounded by the Prophets.

Here with astonishing beauty the story of the Bible comes to life along the walls through the talents of Florentine masters such as Botticelli, Rosselli, Ghirlandaio, and Perugino who spent a year on the frescoes, scenes from the Old Testament on the left wall as you enter and those from the New Testament on the right. Most famous of these is Perugino's Christ Giving the Keys to Peter.

Behind the altar and commissioned by the Pope in 1535 Michaelangelo painted the Last Judgement which took six years to complete. His work shows mastery of the medium and it was painted in one fluid design. We enjoyed noticing all the details that make this a timely and astonishing work of art, for instance how small the book of names is for Heaven and how large it is for Hell. And our tour guide pointed out Minos at the door to Hell, the one with donkey ears and wrapped in a snake, was actually a Cardinal who denounced Michaelangelo's work because of its nudity and tried to label him a heretic.
From here we headed back to the hotel, a great lunch at an outdoor cafe, and knock-around time including a great dinner and reflections about this lovely city and how we would love to return and rent an apartment. Tomorrow we are on to Florence, the center of Italian Arts and Sciences.

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